UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
In the current political atmosphere, the United Arab Emirates or UAE is definitely the most user-friendly part of the Middle East for Americans and most especially American women. While my husband has traveled extensively in this part of the world, he has only been welcomed into Saudi Arabia, Baharain, and the UAE. I went with his to Dubai on a leg of our 2008 Around the World trip.
The UAE's political system is based on its 1971 Constitution, which is composed of several intricately connected governing bodies. As a federation of seven monarchies, whose rulers retain absolute power within their emirates, but with a UAE president, it is neither a constitutional monarchy nor a republic. The emirs choose one of their members to be the president of the federation, but this does not alter the monarchical character of the government of the individual emirates.
DUBAI
What we noticed was that the two primary cities Dubai and Abu Dhabi are extremely different in their development philosophy. Dubai comes off as a flashy (Vegas style) attention getter and Abu Dhabi is a elegant and conservative development. In 2008 Dubai was a total mess with all these glamorous high rises with no infrastructure to support it. They now have at least a two line light rail in place, so I'm sure getting around the city is much easier. However, their overbuilding and lack of sales has cost them some of their glamour on the world stage. So even the oil-rich Arabs are not immune to market downturns, low occupancy rates, and declining housing prices.
We found good services and friendly, helpful people everywhere we went. The hotel staffs are usually of Indonesians and Indians who have been imported to do the work while the Arabs are the owners/managers. As a matter of fact we established a very helpful relationship with a private taxi/limo driver on our first day there and he was willing and able to supply our transportation needs the whole time at a very reasonable price.
Another unusual aspect to UAE culture is that because of the conservatism of the Islamic faith, there are no bars or alcohol vendors on the streets. I believe you can buy boxed wine at some groceries, but you cannot buy a drink on the street. That said, the law allows alcohol to be sold in restaurants only in hotels. Therefore there are several very good restaurants in each hotel and you are able to have wine or beer with your dinner.
There are more details about things to do in the Dubai Highlights page.
ABU DHABI
Our trip to Abu Dhabi was only for the day, but it was well worth the drive. There were good roads, well landscaped parks. Our driver took us to see the fabulous new Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque which under construction at the time. Certainly we couldn't go near the place, but once finished it can serve 40,000 people for prayers.
Completed Mosque 2011 |
outside still under construction 2008 |
TURKEY
So Turkey gets billed as a "westernized" eastern city. Definitely Turkey is not as strict and sectarian as many Middle Eastern countries, but it is still very much a Muslim part of the world. We didn't travel into the central or eastern regions of the country, but with all the conflict with Syria currently that would not have been smart anyway. We spend two days in Istanbul and one in Ephesus while on our cruise to the area, and that was enough to get a good flavor of the area.
ISTANBUL
They talk a lot about the fact that Istanbul straddles the continents of Asia and Europe, but when you walk into the Spice Souk in the old town, you are in the Middle East!!!
If this is the only place you can comfortably enter a working Mosque as an American woman or man, then do it. I've been to several Mosques in different parts of the work, but my husband who has spent much time in Saudi Arabia and other parts of the Middle East, had never had the opportunity to enter one. So the Blue Mosque in Istanbul was a real adventure for him. The prayer rooms are divided by sex so the women do not pray in the same room with their husbands. As you know Muslims pray five times a day, but do not always go to the Mosque to observe prayers.
If you are lucky enough to go to Istanbul, do not be afraid to wander around and even to ask questions if you need to. Most Turks know a little English and they are very accustomed to foreign visitors. We did not use local transportation there but I did see a lot of buses. Beware of taxis as they are apt to try to confuse you and take advantage of you. We had one guy offer to take us to the ship for 20 Euros and then when we got there he said it was 20 each. We just gave him the 20 and got out.
If you are there overnight, do book yourself on one of the Bosporus River Dinner Cruises. The one we got from Tripadvisor was Dances of Colours and not only was the food excellent, but the entertainment (musicians, folk dancers, and belly dancers) was great
EPHESUS
We booked this tour through our cruiseline, which is unusual for us, but the ruins of Ephesus was a ways from the port where we docked and there wasn't any local transport to get us there. Ephesus is a Biblical area with tons of history. We found the ruins as well preserved as Pompei and some very interesting relics from their history.
Just outside the old city we went to visit the home where Mary, mother of Jesus, spent her last days. The story is the Apostle John took her there to live out her remaining years in solitude. We were amazed at the reverence the crowd showed.
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